My wife and I recently returned to the Big Island to relax for a few days. We stayed at the Westin Hapuna Beach Resort, which was a favorite hotel location of my parents. Despite being 30 years old, this 250 room resort is well maintained, has beautiful grounds and has direct access to Hapuna Beach. There are also cultural programs in which guests can participate.
During our visit, the Kona Ironman competition was underway. We weren't aware of this scheduling. We learned that the vehicle traffic along Kailua-Kona roads and Highway 19 would be severely restricted on race Saturday. Several locals told us that on race day, a typical 45 minute drive from our hotel to one of our favorite Kailua-Kona restaurants, Jackie Reys, could take over two hours. We pivoted to a Waimea restaurant in the opposite direction from race activities. A lesson learned: check local event calendars when planning your travels.
Here's a short summary of a few trip highlights:
Mahai'ula BayWe spent an early morning at Mahai'ula Bay. There is a parking lot for this location right off Highway 19, near the sign for Kekaha Kai State Park. There is yet another parking area closer to the Bay, but the road has a few very gnarly spots. We drove our Chevy sedan rental about half-way towards the more distant parking lot before deciding it would be best to park the car along the unimproved road and simply walk the rest of the way. When we left the bay to return to the highway, the sedan bottomed out in a couple of locations due to uneven and rocky areas - higher ground clearance was needed. I learned that this road was paved a very long time ago, but maintenance has been very limited. I was told that paving the original park dirt/lava road may have led to unanticipated weather related drainage problems. This issue could have caused greater erosion in some spots. I later read reports of some sedan drivers poking a hole in their engine oil pan on this road.
Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden
About 90 minutes from the Westin, along Highway 19, near the towns of Onomea and Pepeekeo, is the Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden. This 17 acre garden provides a wonderful opportunity to view lush tropical rainforest plants, waterfalls and ocean views. The garden is home to over 2,000 plant species. Garden preparation started in 1977 by the owners, Dan and Pauline Lutkenhouse. The garden is now operated by a non-profit trust.
We wandered through the garden paths for a little over an hour. Much of our time was spent admiring the beautiful flowers, collected from throughout the world. It was challenging not to stop and take photos of every flower bloom we viewed.
Note to those that are physically challenged, the garden planked/paved path is steep in some places. Walking sticks and canes are permitted. However, garden staff considers the path to be too steep for safe use by mobility devices, such as wheelchairs, scooters or crutches. The garden is exempt from ADA standards as reducing the steep areas would alter the natural Onomea valley topography.
Below are just a few photos from the garden.
On our return drive, we stopped for lunch at the Onomea Country Market (about ten minutes from the garden). The market has a gift store, fresh fruits and and food prepared by Piilani Kitchen. Note the smoothies and paninis here are especially delicious. The market is located on Old Mamalahoa Highway, in Pepeekeo.
If you enjoy shortbread cookies, the drive from the Westin to the garden goes through Paauilo, home of Donna's Cookies. We stopped at the bakery on our morning drive and purchased 2.5 gallons of cookies to bring back home. These cookies easily crumble, so we placed them in our carry-on luggage during our flight back to California. The bakery is closed on weekends and is open until 2pm on weekdays.
On the return drive from the garden, we stopped at Tex Drive-in, in Honokaa, for malasadas and coffee.
Donna's Cookies Bakery |
Tex Drive-In |
Pu'ulohola Heiau National Historia Site
Dining Recommendations
Bamboo Restaurant, Hawi
About 25 minutes from the Westin is the North Kohala town of Hawi. This small town has several art galleries, a few restaurants, boutiques and a small market. Our dinner destination in Hawi was the Bamboo Restaurant and Gallery. This restaurant only serves dinners on Thursdays and Fridays, so advance reservations are a must. Bamboo is known for its great dining atmosphere, delicious food, reasonable prices and helpful staff. The Pina colada was the best we had on the island.
Forc, Waimea
This was our first visit to Forc Restaurant in Waimea. This location was about a 20 minute drive from the Westin. Advance reservations are advised. We had dinner here on a Friday night and it was very crowded at 5:45pm. We later learned there was a Jake Shimabukuro concert in Waimea at 7pm, hence the busy early dining. We recommend Forc be on your Big Island restaurant list.
Napua, Mauna Lani
Napua Restaurant offers terrific dinner selections, nice view of the nearby beach and friendly service. The meals rely on local farms, fresh seafood and ranches. We dined at this restaurant last year and, again, it was an enjoyable visit. +
Sansei Restaurant, Waikoloa
Sansei Seafood and Sushi Restaurant is our casual and unpretentious local dining stop on each Big Island visit. The menu offers a wide variety of dishes and each is done well.