Mara North Conservancy and Masai Mara National Reserve
Our final Kenya stop was at Elewana Elephant Pepper Camp, located in Mara North Conservancy. The conservancy was established in 2009. It consists of 70,000 acres and borders the even larger 128,000 acre Masai Mara National Reserve. The conservancy has many species, including Cape buffalo, zebras, hippo, crocodiles, giraffe, elephant, lion, leopard, cheetah, elands, hyenas, topi and warthogs. The geography ranges from shallow sandy areas, tropical savannah, to deep silt areas with poor drainage. This location allowed us to devote one full day (6am -6pm) visiting the Masai Mara National Reserve - and a chance to view the massive wildebeest and zebra migration through the Mara River.
We stayed at this location for four nights, which was our longest stay in a single Kenya bush camp.
Elewana Elephant Pepper Camp
This camp consisted of ten bush tents, two of which were larger suite tents. The relatively small number of tents translated into about 20-24 guests at any one time.
The tents were nicely furnished with king bedding (or twins), electricity, purified water containers, WIFI, dual bathroom sinks, shower and toilet. Tap water was not used for teeth brushing. The tent was not as luxurious as our Sirikoi tent and seemed to reflect an older time bush tent vibe (though with running hot and cold water). There were no electric fences, so an escort was needed when walking in the camp during the dark early hours or after dinner. Our tent was a bit weathered near the front zipper entry area but was otherwise well-maintained. During several hours of rain on one evening, the tent remained dry and comfortable.
Meals were served in the large common tent, with separate tables for each safari guest group. In-camp breakfasts were ala carte. Lunch included five to six small servings to be shared at our table for two. Dinners were from a menu selection. The meals were delicious and varied. We particularly enjoyed the lunches and the creative offerings available for this meal. There were also opportunities for both a post-game drive bush breakfast and a bush lunch if you choose an all-day activity.
I walked around camp and briefly viewed the kitchen area, vegetable and fruit gardens, solar array and batteries, vehicle maintenance area and produce and food storage container.
This camp, similar to the others, was based on full board. This included all meals, drinks, game drives and bush walk option. After viewing from a safari vehicle for many Kenya game drives, we decided to spend one morning on a bush walk. This approximately 2 mile walk allowed us to view animal tracks and local plants and flowers with descriptions of traditional Masai use. We were accompanied on this walk by a guide and two Masai guards with spears. The walk was one way and we all returned to camp for breakfast via a safari vehicle. Note we did have to sign a responsibility waiver prior to the start of the bush walk.
Elewana Collection
The Bathroom Area is Behind the Drapes Elewana Collection
Common Lounge and Dining Areas
Delicious Lunch Selections
Another Lunch at Elephant Pepper Camp
On Safari in Mara North and Masai Mara National Reserve
We were able to participate in four game drives and one bush walk in Mara North Conservancy. One day was devoted to Masai Mara National Reserve. During our game drives, we viewed the elusive leopard and cheetah. These cats were present but not seen in Lewa Wildlife Conservancy or Amboseli.
Bush Walk Group
Our all-day visit to Masai Mara National Reserve allowed us to see massive herds of wildebeest, buffalo and zebra. These herd sizes were not seen at the other Kenya camp locations.
In the Reserve, we devoted several hours watching smaller wildebeest herds and zebras considering whether to cross the crocodile laden Mara River. This crossing is part of the annual migration and visitors often see thousands of animals crossing the River from the Serengetti to Masai Mara National Reserve. However, the late rains and climate change delayed the annual crossings this year. Despite devoting our attention to the Mara River, smaller wildebeest herds inspected the river area and backed away, deciding to cross another day. As this was our last game drive day in Kenya, we left pleased with memories seeing the large grazing herds.
Wildebeest Herd
Cape Buffalo Herd
Topis
Spotted Hyena
Wildebeest Herd
How Many Zebras?
Vultures Picking at Carcass
Cross the River?
Waiting in the River
Bundled Up for a Morning Game Drive
Our Final Airflight from Mara North to Nairobi
Upon arriving at Wilson Airport in Nairobi at noon, Origins staff brought us to the Four Points Sheraton at the Nairobi International Airport. We had about a seven hour layover at the hotel before Origins representatives guided us through Emirates check-in, Customs and lounge entry. Our flight departure was at 10:45pm, with a scheduled arrival in Dubai at 5am.
In Dubai, we spent five hours in the airport business lounge before starting our very long Emirates 380 15 hour nonstop flight from Dubai to San Francisco. Although this was a long set of flights, we found the pricing of these tickets very competitive.
Overall, this was a wonderful trip. Fish Eagle Safaris and Origins Safari put together both a great itinerary and a set of three bush camps - each a bit different than the other. While traveling as a couple in Africa, rather than in a group, we were always in great care by Kenyan staff.
Latest Update
It was shared with me that Elewana Elephant Pepper Camp will receive a substantial upgrade in November 2024. The existing ten guest tents will be replaced with new tents and five more guest tents will be added to the camp. The dining, reception and gift/library tents will also be replaced with larger tents. In addition, the guest bathroom near the dining and reception area will be upgraded. Quite a few changes for Elephant Pepper Camp for the 2025 season!
After visiting Amboseli, we moved onto Lewa Wildlife Conservancy. Covering 62,000 acres, this area is home to endangered black rhino and Grevy's zebra, and also elephants, lions, giraffe and other Kenya wildlife species. The Conservancy is home to more than 490 species of birds.
A Safarilink Cessna Caravan, with 12 seats, flew us from Amboseli to the Lewa Downs air strip. Lewa Downs is about 160 miles north of Nairobi. The approximate 290 mile non-stop flight from Amboseli National park took about 70 minutes. From the Lewa Downs air strip, it was a short safari vehicle ride to our second safari camp, Sirikoi.
Sirikoi Safari Lodge
This camp was by far the most luxurious setting we experienced in Kenya. There were four large tents, a two bedroom cottage and a three bedroom house available for guests in Sirikoi. The three bedroom house had its own private pool, chef and wait staff. With only guests from four tents and the cottage in the common lounge and dining area, we immediately recognized this camp as a special environment.
The camp also had a heated in-ground pool for camp guests not staying in the house. Our full board stay included game drives, exclusive safari vehicle use, meals, drinks and a behind scene tour of the camp.
Our Sirikoi tent was well-appointed, and maintained, as the below photos will attest. Our very large tent actually had an attached second bedroom tent, with two twin beds. During our Kenya visit to three camps, our Sirikoi tent was the only one with a coal fireplace that was lit each evening. Our tent had a full-sized bathroom - with dual sinks, toilet, shower and tub, electricity, WIFI, and included several pitchers of purified water for drinking and teeth brushing. Each evening, a hot-water filled pad was placed under our bed covers to take the chill off the late night. This practice was followed in each of our three Kenya tent camps and at the House of Waine.
Caroline, the camp manager, was very welcoming and, during an introduction, described our stay and game drives while in camp. The camp accommodations were not surrounded by electrical fencing, so we alerted a camp escort when we walked in camp during the dark hours of early morning or after dinner. That said, we didn't see any dangerous wildlife near our tent but did see a somewhat resident giraffe on the camp grounds. This giraffe was rescued by the Sirikoi owners when very young.
The nearby monkeys required us to ensure our tent was fully zipped up if we left the tent and during the evenings and when we turned in for the night.
The food selections during breakfast, lunch and dinner were excellent. The meals were creative and varied from day to day.
Sirikoi has a strong focus on sustainability. The camp recycles used glass bottles into etched vases and crushed glass into construction material (single-use plastic items are banned by the Kenyan government in natural reserves and parks). An on-site woodworking area builds and repairs camp furniture and an expansive organic garden supplies the camp with fresh fruits and vegetables. A large solar array and storage batteries provide electricity to the camp (a backup generator exists, if needed). Sirikoi also has a building dedicated to sharing local cultural and camp historical information with camp guests. A gym and massage service is offered - though we didn't find time to try either as we were kept busy between early morning and late afternoon game drives, in-between downtime and meals.
At Sirikoi, we had a private game driver which made the visit feel even more customized and special. David, our Masai game guide and driver, was terrific at identifying wildlife and providing information on the animals, plants, trees and birds we viewed during our game drives.
During one evening, we joined Sirikoi's owner, Sue Roberts, at the campfire. Sue shared the long history of her family supporting wildlife preservation in Kenya, operating Kenyan bush camps and the site selection and building of Sirikoi. Her family also runs Richard's River Camp, in Masai Mara.
Coal Fireplace is on the Left
Interior of Tent #4
Largest Bathroom of Our Three Tents in Kenya
Comfortable Guest Lounge
Dining Inside Due to Rain
On Safari in Lewa Wildlife Conservancy
Lewa Wildlife Conservancy has many diverse habitats, including pristine forest, fertile grasslands, extensive springs and acacia woodland. The Conservancy was formed in 1995 from the joining of a rhino sanctuary, Ngare and Ndare Forest Reserve and private ranch lands. About 12 percent of the black rhinos in Kenya live in Lewa Wildlife Conservancy, along with about 350 endangered Grevy's zebras.
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