Tuesday, October 28, 2025

Machu Picchu, Cusco and Return to the US - September 2025

Machu Picchu, Peru

This is the final entry for my Galapagos and Machu Picchu trip. It has taken me quite a while to post this content as retirement life is busy!
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Another long but special day for us as we were finally visiting Machu Picchu. We left our hotel at 7:45am for the 9am Vistadome train from Urubamba to Aguas Calientes, with an arrival at 11am. We took the shuttle bus from Aguas Calientes to the Sanctuary Lodge  (and location of site entry) for lunch. After lunch, our tour of Machu Picchu would end with a tea-time gathering back at the Sanctuary Lodge at 4pm. At 5pm, our schedule had us boarding the Hiram Bingham train for dinner and arrival in Cusco around 10pm.

The weather forecast was for periodic rain during the day. We lucked out as the first hour of our visit was dry. We walked "Circuit 2," considered a moderately difficult trail. Due to high visitor traffic and need to protect the site, ticket holders are now limited to one of three walking trails per entry ticket. We learned a lot from our guide about the pre-Inca and Inca empires that resided at Machu Picchu and how the site was used for worship, administration, agriculture and housing. The broad views were spectacular, with a challenge for photos to fully describe the site. 

With the late afternoon rain, the stone steps became slippery and a fall looked treacherous from higher terraces. I used a single hiking pole but perhaps should have used both as I felt a bit unsteady going down the uneven steps. Some areas have handrails but they were few and far between.  

What Did We Learn About Machu Picchu?

Machu Picchu, elevation 8,000 feet, is located in a cloud forest, where the Andes meets the Amazon River. It was constructed around 1450, possibly for Inca emperor Pachacuti. It lies between two mountain peaks, Machu Picchu and Huayna Picchu. About 750 people lived there, largely consisting on fish and corn, potatoes and other agriculture grown on the man-made terraces. Inhabitants also traded within the surrounding valleys to expand food sources. Abundant rainfall was conducive to successful harvests. Native flowers, including Waqanki orchid, Winay Wayna orchid, Cantua buxifolia (Peru's national flower), Fuchsia bolivian and Mirabilis jalapa, were also grown on some of the terraces.  Machu Picchu was likely abandoned during the Spanish conquests during the 16th century. 

The most visited areas of Machu Picchu include the Temple of the Sun, Temple of the Three Windows and the ritual Intihuatana Stone.

Hiram Bingham rediscovered a vegetation overgrown Machu Picchu in 1911. Later expeditions conducted site clearing and further archaeological work. Machu Picchu was designated as a National Historic Sanctuary in 1981 and a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983. The annual number of visitors exceeded 1.5 million in 2024. 

All Aboard the Vistadome Train

Hikers Along the Inca Trail
A Much More Difficult Method to Reach Machu Picchu 


Aguas Calientes














There are Llamas in the Middle of this Photo


Roughing It on the Hiram Bingham Train to Cusco

Cusco, Peru

We had a full day of touring in Cusco before leaving to Lima and, finally, the US. Our first stop was Coricancha Temple, the religious center of the Inca Empire. This Inca temple was dedicated to the Sun God and located in the Inca capital of Cusco. During the Inca Empire, the temple walls were described as covered with gold and silver - which may have contributed the myth of an Inca City of Gold. Much of the temple was destroyed by the Spanish Conquistadors and items of gold and silver removed. However, the temple base served as the foundation of 17th century Church and Convent of Santa Domingo. We viewed the church and convent foundation, and could see how the Inca masonry workers carefully placed cut cube stones to form the temple foundation.

Our second stop was Saqayhuaman Fortress, a former Inca citidel built in the 15th century. We only walked around the fortress base and were amazed at the placement of huge stones, some estimated to weigh over 100 tons.  Our guide showed us how visually lining up the layout of Inca temples and fortress in Cusco outlined a jaguar (or puma), one of the sacred Inca symbols representing power, strength and leadership.

The fortress of Saqayhuaman represents the jaguar head. The body is composed of Hawkaypoata (Main Plaza), Coricancha Temple of the Sun, Saqayhuaman Upper Temple of the Sun, and dwellings for workers and families of rulers. Only higher-ranking individuals and families were permitted to live within the outline of the jaguar.   

Source: ukumariperutravel.com

Machu Picchu Travel Group at Saqayhuaman Fortress
(Note the Large Stones and Placement in the Background)


As we made our way back to Cusco, we stopped by the Sulca Family Textile Center, a family-operated business that raises Alpaca and sells local products made from Alpaca fleece. The softness of baby Alpaca fleece was particularly amazing. It wasn't possible to resist from purchasing two sweaters made from this fiber. There is also a museum at the Center that showcases quilts with pre-Inca and Inca patterns.



We returned to downtown Cusco for lunch at the Inkagrill and free time before our final group dinner at the Belmond Monasterio Hotel. A special offering of the hotel was dinner entertainment by opera singers at the El Tupay restaurant. After dinner, it was time to pack up for our departure in the morning. The end of our Galapagos and Machu Picchu trip was upon us.

Our Belmond Monasterio Two-Floor Suite

Hotel Breakfast was Delicious

Hotel Grounds

A sample of the 4,000 Potato Varieties Grown in Peru

Many Corn Varieties, As Well



Return to Lima and Flight to US

Just after loading into our mini-van for a 7:30am ride from our hotel to the Cusco airport, our Celebrity guide informed us that our LATAM 9:30am flight to Lima was cancelled. The LATAM 11am flight was also cancelled. The next LATAM flight with available seats was around 5pm. Our guides arranged for us to retrieve our hotel keys and relax in our hotel room until lunch time. Celebrity provided us with lunch at Casa Cusequena - with Pisco Sours.

Once we arrived at the Cusco airport at 3:30pm, our LATAM 5pm departure became uncertain. Ultimately, this flight was delayed to depart at 8:45pm (almost 12 hours past the original departure time). This late departure meant our Lima airport arrival would not permit collection of our stored luggage at the Westin Lima and still make our 1am flight from Lima to Houston. Traveling between the Lima airport and Westin Lima is a two-hour round trip - without any time for luggage retrieval and content adjustments for security (hiking sticks should not be in carry-on luggage). Luckily, our Celebrity guide arranged for a Lima representative to collect our luggage from the Westin and bring it to us at the Lima airport. The rest of our air travel back to the US went without problems. 

We pretty much lost any confidence in LATAM airline being able to meet its published schedules.  You may recall that in addition to the above issue, our Quito to Lima 7pm flight was moved to 1am, the next day. During these delays, LATAM gate staff were often uncertain of current flight status due to automated system deficiencies. Although ten years ago, in 2015, LATAM lost my checked luggage from Antarctica - which was never found but replaced by insurance. 


Sunday, October 26, 2025

Lima, Cusco and Sacred Valley Visit - September 2025


Lima, Peru

Despite an early morning arrival and check-in (3:30am) at the Westin Lima hotel, we left at noon for a group lunch at Cafe Casa Musea and a tour of Lima's historic central downtown. Although we didn't have time to visit the Peruvian art in the Larco Museum in the same complex, we enjoyed the venue's beautiful flowers and gardens. 


Cafe Casa Musea

Example of Peruvian Art, Larco Museum
Source: Cabana Magazine


The city of Lima was founded by Francisco Pizarro in 1535. Soon thereafter, government buildings were constructed on the Plaza de Armas. Surrounding the Plaza are the Government Palace, Municipal Palace, Archbishop Palace and Lima Cathedral.  The Plaza also served as an open-air market in the past. José de San Martín proclaimed Peru's independence in 1821 from the Plaza de Armas. 

Our tour of the historic area included the Convent of San Francisco and cloisters and Plaza de Armas. Police presence was very high near the Governmental Palace due to anticipated widespread protest activity. About a week after returning to the US, we learned that Peru's President Dina Boluarte was removed from office by Peru Congress. 

Returning from our afternoon Lima tour to the Westin, we repacked our luggage into two small carry-on pieces so that we could leave our larger luggage at the Westin. We needed only four days of clothes for our travel to Machu Picchu and Galapagos clothes were not needed. The plan was to pick these larger luggage pieces up on our 5pm return to Lima from Cusco. The following day we planned to fly back to the US from Lima. This was a great plan but you'll read later that the plan didn't go as smoothly as we anticipated due once again to LATAM flight delays and cancellations in Cusco. 

Leaving sea-level Lima for Cusco was the start of our visit to high-altitude Peru locations. 

Moving On to Urubamba in the Sacred Valley

We had a long travel day as we moved from Lima to the Sacred Valley. At 6:30am, we were riding a bus from Westin Lima to the Lima Airport. The flight to Cusco was only about an hour and we were soon at 11,500 elevation in Cusco. Our group of 22 immediately boarded two large mini-vans and we departed for the Sacred Valley, a little over 2.5 hour drive over a windy two-lane road. 

Roasted Guinea Pig is Often Served During Special Celebrations

After a late lunch stop at Hacienda Huayoccari, we arrived at the Tambo del Inka hotel at 4pm. Celebrity included all meals during our Machu Picchu extension and we had a nice dinner at the hotel. We ate a light dinner as we were advised that altitude sickness could be triggered by eating heavily, drinking alcohol and not staying hydrated. We noticed our dinner appetites were suppressed at the 9,500 elevation of our hotel as well as from our frequent late lunches. 

Source: Hacienda Huayoccari

Photos: Marriott.Com
  



Hotel Lobby



Baby Alpaca Posing for Photos in Hotel Lobby

Coca tea was available at all hotels and lunch restaurants. Coca tea is a local drink that is said to help avoid altitude sickness and provide additional energy. Our guides suggested avoiding drinking coca tea after 5pm as it could be difficult to sleep at night. Coca tea ended up being a non-issue for me as I read that coca tea has some negative interactions with a number of prescription drugs.

The next day, we toured the Cermicas Seminario, the pottery workshop of Pablo Seminario. His colorful expressive art pieces are in many museums throughout the world. The artist happened to be in the workshop during our visit and chatted with our tour group.

Photo: CeramicsSeminario.Com



Leaving the pottery workshop, we drove about 30 minutes to the temple grounds of Ollantaytanbo. Ollantaytanbo was an Incan fortress, administrative center and temple. Similar to other temples in this area, Ollantaytanbo was initially built by a pre-Inca Empire and the last inhabitants were Inca people.




Photo: Kondorpathtours.com


After defeat by the Spanish troops led by Hernando Pizarro, near Cusco, Manco Inca fled to this location. Despite a Spanish force of 100 men and 30,000 indigenous troops, Manco Inca and his 20,000 warriors successfully defended Ollantaytanbo. Manco Inca later left this area to establish the last refuge of the Inca Empire, Vilcabamba. 

Manco Inca has an interesting history in Peru. At an earlier point in time, he was a captive of the Spaniards and later considered a puppet Inca emperor installed by the Spaniards led by Francisco Pizarro. History indicates Manco became disillusioned with the Spaniards robbing and enslaving the indigenous people and realized the Spaniards would never permit Inca to actually rule. Apparently, after mistreatment, he escaped and led 200.000 Inca warriors to attack the Spanish military in Cusco.

If you're visiting Ollantaytanbo or Machu Picchu, we found using a hiking stick (or two) with a rubber tip was helpful as we climbed up and down rock steps with both uneven depth and height. In both locations, handrails were not consistently available. With the high altitude, we took frequent but short rests to enjoy the scenary, learn history from our guides, as well as catch our breath and drink water. 

With a busy morning, we had a late lunch at Wayra Restaurant in Urubamba. This restaurant is known for its Peruvian foods and entertainment. During lunch we watched Peruvian Pasa horse riding demonstrations and Marinera dancers. 

Photo: Wayra Restaurant

Fresh Fruit Plate


Once back at the Tambo del Inka, we had some afternoon free time. We walked over to the central downtown market to see the vegetables, flower, fruits and meat stalls.



After two days at elevations ranging from 9.500 to 11,500 feet, we felt better prepared to avoid altitude sickness. Our Celebrity tour guides were careful to maintain a slow and steady pace and always checked to see if everyone was in good health.