Thursday, May 15, 2025

Japan Travel (Part 6) - May 2025

Nagasaki, Kyushu Island

On August 9, 1945, an atomic bomb was detonated over the city of Nagasaki. The devastation of the city, loss of life and health impact to survivors are well-documented at the Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum

We visited the museum and the Peace Park during our morning visit to Nagasaki. 

Hypocenter of Nagasaki Atomic Bomb

Statue inMemory of School Children and Teachers

Exhibit of Immaculate Conception Cathedral (Urakami Church)
After Bomb, Nagasaki

Peace Statue Symbolizing a Pledge for Eternal Peace

A Peace Park Monument



After our morning tour, we stopped by the Hamanomachi Arcade. We shopped at the Don Quijote (aka "Donki") store to purchase a duffel to use as an additional check-in luggage for our flight from Narita to San Francisco. During the six weeks of travel, we noticed that we were running out of luggage space - too many items collected during our travel. Donki is a large variety discount store that is found in over 600 Japan locations. The aisles and shelves are deeply stocked and the store carries luggage. We found a 40L duffel that was more than adequate for our packing needs. 





With shopping complete, we had lunch at Katsushika, a tonkatsu restaurant at the end of the covered arcade. Lunch (a chicken tonkatsu and seafood tonkatsu with miso soup, salad and takuan) was delicious and, for two, cost about $20 USD.     

My Seafood Tonkatsu Lunch

Leaving the Arcade area by foot, we walked through the downtown area. We returned to the Port and the Quest via a local tram.

A Playground Structure

Meganebashi Bridge Over Nakashima River in Central Nagasaki 



Kagoshima, Kagoshima Prefecture, Kyushu Island

We were on our own for this port day. Our plan was to visit Sengan-en, the historic house and Japanese gardens of the Shimazu clan, one of the most powerful feudal clans of the Edo period. The house was built in 1658 and reconstructed in1880. The last resident of Sengan-en was Shimazu Tadayoshi (1840-1897), the 31st lord. Sengan-en is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The house and gardens provide a view of Sakurajima, an active Volcano. This volcano constantly emits smoke and last erupted in May 2025.

Getting to Sengan-en from the port is possible by train, bus or taxi. We chose taxi to shorten our transportation time and arrive at the beginning entry time. 

There is a next door Shoko Shuseikan museum dedicated to the Shimazu family 800 year history and also includes Shimazu equipment that brought the Industrial Revolution to Japan through textiles, steel and iron manufacturing and glass-making. 

Our final stop after leaving Sengan-en was much more reflective of current technology. A few steps away from the port is the Misumi Apple Store. I picked up an Apple AirTag to place in my new "check-in" duffel for the flight back to the US.













View of Sakurajira Volcano from Sengan-en


Shoko Shuseikan


Ishigaki Island, Okinawa Prefecture

Our visit to Ishigaki Island was short in duration and, hence, we didn't see many sights. We stopped at the Minsa Art and Craft Center to view its 4-5 square pattern/brand on woven cloth. This pattern is represented by four squares followed by five squares and means "for many years to come."
There was no one actually weaving during our visit, so this excursion allowed us to browse the Center's small museum and provide guests with a shopping opportunity.




Our next stop was the Kabira Bay overlook that provided views of emerald green waters. There was also some shopping opportunities here (Sake and pearls) but we simply relaxed and enjoyed the views.




A highlight of our morning in Ishigaki was our stop at the Ishigaki Pottery Studio. We learned of the many experiments by Kihachiro Kaneko to create glass fused pottery. His objective was to use the beauty of a tenmoku tea bowl as his inspiration. Tenmoku is a style of glaze believed to be used for stoneware from the Song Dynasty (1127-1279).  We found his pottery captured many shades of blue within a ceramic that is decorated with what visually appears as floating oil spots. We purchased a plate and it now is displayed in our house, among other art pieces from our many travels. 


Shimizu, Shizuoka Prefecture, Honshu Island

This was our final port stop on our Seabourn Quest cruise. We met our guide from Free Shizuoka Guide as we left the ship's gangway. This group provides free guides in the Shimizu area, with the cost of any transportation, entry fees and lunch/snacks covered by the visitor. A visitor may also be asked to pay for the guides transportation to the meeting point. In Japan, we found that our private guides sometimes traveled 90 minutes to reach our tour meeting point and find this reimbursement for free guides more than reasonable. For all day tours, we have lunch with our guide and pay for the guide's lunch expense. Note that in Japan, tips are not expected.

Our first morning stop was the Nihondaira Ropeway to the Kunozan Toshogu Temple via taxi. The ropeway is an aerial lift that connects Nihondaira Mountain with the Kunozan Toshogu Temple. The ropeway provides scenic views of Surge Bay, the Izu Peninsula and Mount Fuji (on a clear day). 

The Kunozan Toshogu Shrine was built over 400 years ago and, due to its mountain location, survived WWII. The temple holds the remains of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the first shogun to unify Japan. He served as shogun between 1603 and 1605, before retiring to what now is Shizuoka City. He died in 1616, at the age of 75.

There were 1,129 high stone steps to reach the shrine. Ieyasu is said to be buried here but there may be some of his remains also buried in Nikko Toshogu Shrine. Kunozan Temple is a national treasure, designated in December 2010.

Once we returned to Nihondaira Mountain, we stopped at the Nippondaira Hotel to view Shimizu Bay from the Yumo-Terrace, but still Mt. Fuji was obscured by clouds. 

Source: Nippondaira Hotel

Just before lunch, we moved on to Miho Beach to walk among some of the 30,000 pine trees. The legend of Hagoromo-no-Matsu takes place along the beach. In this story, a celestial maiden leaves her feathered robe on the beach, only to be taken by a fisherman. Before returning the robe, the fisherman asks the maiden to perform a dance. After a beautiful dance, the maiden returns to heaven with her robe.

Our lunch stop was at the Kashi-no Ichi fish market. At the market, there are many vendors from which to purchase fish and shellfish - some fresh and some dried. There are also several restaurants offering seafood dishes.

Just before returning to the Seabourn Quest, we stopped at the Uniqlo store in the S-Pulse Dream Plaza. We purchased a few clothing items that needed to be squeezed into our luggage. The following day, we departed the Quest for a trip to Nikko.





Resting Place of Tokugawa Ieyasu


Resting Place for Tokugawa Ieyasu's Horse


Kashi-no Ichi Fish Market
Source: Visit-Shizuoka.Com


Inside the Market











Wednesday, May 14, 2025

Japan Travel (Part 5) - May 2025

Amami Oshima Island, Kagoshima Prefecture

The Oshima Nature Observatory is part of a UNESCO World Natural Heritage Site. We took a hike in this subtropical ocean climate region to view the evergreen forests and streams and reach a lookout structure. Despite this area receiving monsoon rain and several typhoons each year, it was dry for our hike. 

This forest is also home for the Habu viper - an apex predator with a venomous bite. While cautious, we didn't see any snakes during our forest trek, though we did see a salamander.
 



Near the end of the walk, there was a lookout tower,

View from Lookout

Amami Oshima Distillery

Local Kokuto brown sugar, malted Thailand rice and Kome koji are all essential ingredients for making Jougo Shochu. We stopped at the Amami Oshima Shuzu Distillery to receive a tour of the manufacturing process and taste a few samples of the range of Shochu spirits made in Amami.






Oshima Tsumugi-mura Village

Oshima Tsumugi craft textile has been recognized for supple, lightweight, wrinkle-resistant coth. To make this cloth, silk threads are dyed in a liquid Techigi tree extract multiple times to reach the desired color. Iron-rich mud is also used as a color agent for silk threads. The cloth is highly prized and kimono made from this cloth can easily cost $2,000 to 6,000 USD. 







Naha, Okinawa Prefecture

Naha was the capital of the Ryukyu Kingdom from 1372 to 1879. We visited Shuri Castle, the administrative center and residence of the Ryukyu Kings. In 1879, the Ryukyu Kingdom was annexed by Japan and made a province of Okinawa.

The castle was a reconstructed and reopened in 1992 after being destroyed in WWII.  In 2019, a fire, believed to have started by an electrical incident, destroyed seven main building of Shuri Castle. We could only walk around the perimeter of the castle grounds and peer into the post-fire reconstruction efforts. The main hall is scheduled to reopen in 2026.





Sonohyan-utaki (Sacred Stone Gate)
The king offered prayers for kingdom order and
safety prior to travel

Shuri Castle, Pre-2019 Fire
Source: Wikipedia


A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Shikenaen Garden was built in 1799 as the summer residence for the Ryukyu kings. There is a simple wood constructed palace with beautiful gardens and pond. The garden was destroyed during the WWII Battle of Okinawa but was completely restored between 1975 and 1996.


Inside the Summer Palace

Palace Windows for Airflow and Pond View





After our tours of the palaces, we struck out on our own for lunch in downtown Naha. We stopped for an Okinawa soba lunch at the Okinawa Soba Den. Okinawa soba is known for its use of "Sanmaiku." This is a three-layer slice of pork belly - skin, meat and fat.




Walking in the downtown area, we stopped at Akashi Gotten Kokusai-dori Matsuo on Kokusai Street. This is a large confectionary store with many different snacks to purchase. It even has a factory at the rear of the store that makes Beni-imo tarts. This is a pastry shell filled with purple sweet potato puree. Yes, we tried a few of the tarts.



Beni-imo Tart


Miyako Island, Okinawa Prefecture

We crossed the Irabu Bridge to reach Toriike Pond,  on Shimoji Island, a nationally recognized natural monument. It appears that there are two ponds but both are connected underwater. The walk to the pond is through a canopy of trees, with glimpses of Easter Lilies. Our guide told us that the lilies are native to Okinawa and were exported to other countries - becoming a symbol of joy and hope throughout the world.


No Habu Vipers on Miyako Island



2.1 Mile Long Irabu Bridge

We continued to a ranch of Miyako horses. This breed is native to Japan and is critically maintained. In 1955, there were 10,000 Miyako horses and, presently, the number is in the 40s. The Miyako horses are small, about four feet tall. Historically, they were used for farming and transportation. We observed how Miyako horses were once used to operate a sugar cane mill to extract juice. The resulting cane juice, with added lime juice, was very refreshing and delicious.
 
 


We also visited a factory that creates Miyako jofu textile. This fabric is woven from ramie plant leaves and dyed with native Ryukyu indigo. The resulting fabric is strong and has good air permeability. Unforunately, photos were prohibited in the factory - with the exception of the process to soften the fabric with a very heavy mallet.