Tuesday, November 20, 2018

Norway, Part 1 - 2018

I planned to share information and photos from our summer Norway cruise (June 2018). Five months later, after allowing household activities and our Wyoming trip to distract me, I'm back at the keyboard. 

I soon realized that there was too much content to share in one blog post. So, this "part one" entry will focus on four port stops, Stravanger, Flaam, Aalesund and Trondheim. The remaining port visits will be shared in a "Norway - Part Two" entry.

Stravanger, Norway

Leaving Dover, we cruised north, through the North Sea, to our first Norway port stop. Stravanger. As would become common during our visit to Norway, we stepped off the Pacific Princess under cloudy skies that would turn to moderate rain.

Reviewing the ship excursions, we realized that we could easily arrange our own activities while in Stravanger. After a brief city walk, we boarded a Rodne Company 200 passenger catamaran to travel through Lysebotn, Forsand to Preikestolen, or Pulpit Rock ($55 USD per person). The boat returned to Stravanger after visiting Pulpit Rock. This imposing flat topped rock structure soars almost 2,000 feet about the Lyse Fjord. The catamaran also stops at Hangjane Falls, where water is collected from the falls and shared with passengers. The glacier fed water is naturally clean and requires no treatment. Pulpit Rock might look familiar as you might have seen it in a scene from Mission Impossible: Fallout. While we looked up at Pulpit Rock, there was a ship excursion for hiking to the top of Pulpit Rock and looking down the fjord - perhaps seeing the boats.


We returned for lunch aboard the Pacific Princess. We planned to head out to explore Stravanger after lunch, but it was raining heavily and we decided to spend time making backup plans for day in Flaam. In Flaam, we were scheduled to ride an excursion train up the mountain to Mrydal, the starting point for an 11 mile bike ride down the mountain.  The weather for our mountain bike trip the next day was forecast for rain. With inclement weather on the horizon, we decided to make an alternate reservation for a rail ride back down the mountain if the rain was pouring. This was a challenge as Internet service on the Pacific Princess was slow and expensive. I finally connected with the Norwegian rail office via Skype. Apparently, we purchased the last two seats on the return rail trip.






Stravanger Harbor







Flaam. Norway
Once off the Pacific Princess, we walked over to the rail station to pick-up our recently purchased tickets for a return rail trip from Myrdal to Flaam. Interestingly, this trip wasn't sold out as we were informed the day before on the phone. Thus, if you find yourself in need of some last minute rail tickets in Flaam, it appears the station holds back a few for last minute purchases.
Queen Mary Docked in Flaam

Once again, we arranged our own excursion activities As we waited for the train to from Flaam to Myrdal, it was overcast. As it wasn't raining hard, we went back to our original plan to bike down the mountain from Myrdal to Flaam - rather than use the return rail tickets we purchased the day before. 

The train ride took about an hour, with spectacular views of green hills, waterfalls and steep mountains. If you get a chance to visit Flaam, I recommend this activity.  In Myrdal, the rail station has a small cafe and bike rental counter. We purchased takeaway sandwiches from the cafe with the plan to stop for lunch during our 11 mile ride. 

There are various sizes of bikes and all bike rentals come with a helmet. This helmet is a necessity given the steep terrain at the beginning of the ride down the mountain.

Our bike ride down the mountain immediately started with 21 hairpin turns down a steep, rocky and narrow gravel path. We routinely ride bicycles, but this terrain was unlike any terrain we typically ride on. The bike rental staff suggested walking down the trail - at least the start - if we were apprehensive. Apparently, the day before a bike rider lost control down this steep trail section and needed medical evacuation.

With growing courage and after walking the first few turns, we soon were riding down the bike trail - albeit rather slowly. Once we cleared the 21 hairpin turns, the bike path became more like an unimproved dirt road and was very easy to ride. Along the downhill ride, you view roaring creeks, waterfalls and even a goat dairy. The rain sprinkled periodically on us during our ride, but the sun came out as we found a picnic table for lunch.

If you're in Flaam and have 4-6 hours, I recommend that you consider this combination rail and bike trip. It's not too difficult and the scenery is beautiful.




Flamsbana Rail
Railcar Interior




Bike Trail Down 22 Switchback Corners.
The Steep Waterfalls Indicate Elevation Drop

The bike path goes through a goat dairy






Aalesund, Norway
With a full day in port, we took a taxi ($12 USD) from the port to the Avis counter. At the Avis counter, we rented a small stick shift vehicle for the day. The rental car, with automatic transmission, insurance and unlimited mileage, was about $100 USD. Our plan was to drive over to Trollstigen. Trollstigen is part of the Geirangerfjord UNESCO world heritage site. At the top of the drive, at 2,300 feet in elevation, there is a visitors center and viewing platforms offering spectacular views of the fjord and Stigfossen Waterfall.

Our drive to Trollstigen took about two hours, via highways 136, 650 and 36, through Sjoholt, Stordal, Linge and Validal. Rather than backtrack our drive, drove in a loop, rejoining 136 at Andalsnes and drove though Vikebuht to Aalsund.
Cafeteria in Visitors Center

This high mountain area can be reached via a narrow, steep serpentine road that has 11 hairpin turns. About 2,500 vehicles drive over this road each day, from May to October, before the road is closed for the winter. Buses on this road are restricted to those that are less than 41 feet in length.

We stopped for lunch at the visitor center before venturing out in the heavy mist and drizzle to view the fjord and waterfall. The low clouds obscured our views but we could still experience the broad vistas and deep alpine valley.

On our drive back to Aalesund, we traveled through a 4.5 mile tunnel. Given the mountainous rock formations in Norway,  vehicle tunnels commonly provide safe all-season passage and reduce the time that was previously required to drive winding and, sometimes, meandering roads around mountains and rock formations.

Returning our rental car, we opted to walk back to the cruise terminal through the downtown area. If you have time, this walk is well worth it. The walk revealed many art nouveau styled buildings and city waterways. If you like to shop, there are many stores to draw your attention and your kroner.


We Drove Back to Aalesund on this Road - 11 Hairpin Turns

View Platform at Trollstigen
View of Visitor Center



Trondheim, Norway
Rather than take a ship organized tour, we opted to join friends traveling with us for a walking tour of Trondheim. We planed our route from reviewing several tour books and Internet searches prior to our trip. Once again, we experienced moderate to heavy rain throughout the day, which made our walk a bit damp. We were able to find brief stops along our walk that served as respites from the rain. After lunch, we opted to take a taxi to avoid a two-mile rainy walk

Nidaros Cathedral and Cathedral Cemetery
Thomas Angels House
Trondheim Old Bridge
Trampe Bicycle Lift
Museum of Natural History
Sverreborg Open Air Museum

From the Sverreborg Open Air Museum, it was an easy downhill one-mile walk down to the cruise terminal. The rain had stopped and we enjoyed our walk through a residential area down to the pier.


Monument to Trondheim, Bjorn Norgaard
Kunstmuseum, Trondheim

Colorful Houses Along Nidelva River

Old Town Bridge, Originally Constructed in 1685

Sverreborg Open Air Museum

View From Ruins of King Sverre's Castle
Sverreborg Open Air Museum
The site of King Sverre's Castle is on a hilltop.
There are no rails on this hill.

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