Nordvestfjord, East Greenland, Part 2 - 2019

Traveling overnight, the Ocean Nova transited Scoresbysund through fields of white and blue-tinted icebergs into Nordvestfjord. Nordvestfjord is about 200 miles from where Scoresbysund meets the open sea.

The number of icebergs increased the deeper we sailed into this area and there was a thin layer of late fall sea ice starting to form on the top of the water.  The hull of the Ocean Nova made crunching sounds as we moved through this thin ice. As winter descends onto East Greenland, there would only be one more Ocean Nova expedition into Scoresbysund before ice choked fjords prevented safe passage for the season.

Rubber inflatable zodiac boats are used for either scenic cruising or landings. The latter, as long as winds and sea swells are not extreme and an absence of nearby polar bears, allow hiking and exploration opportunities for expedition guests. Depending on the landing area, there can be cultural and historical sites to view.

Flyverfjord
Our first zodiac activity of the expedition was a cruise through the iceberg-filled Flyverfjord. This fjord branches from Nordvestfjord. Alwin Pedersen, a Danish zoologist, first explored this area in 1929.

Ingmikorilaq
After lunch, we boarded the zodiacs once again but for a hike at Ingmikortilaq. Hikers selected the walking group in which they felt most comfortable - casual, moderate or fast-paced. Throughout our expedition, we stayed in the moderate walking group as it allowed some additional time to enjoy scenic views and to take photographs. The hikes generally lasted 2.5 to 3 hours.

From our landing area at Ingmikortilaq, we walked uphill for an initial view of the Daugaard-Jensen Glacier. Located northwest of Hinksland and south of Charcot Land, the glacier was first mapped in 1933 by Lauge Koch.

We continued our cross-country hike to a steeper rocky viewpoint before heading down. This hike took a little longer than planned and we were the last group to reboard the Ocean Nova before dinner. On the way down the mountain, I tripped on a rock and took a rolling fall, landing on my shoulder. Luckily, no damage was done and my fall was under the watch of the nearby expedition physician. It would have been unfortunate to have an injury in a remote area - especially on the first day of the expedition!  

Eskimobugt
Just on the north side of Nordvestfjord is a site with historical ruins. The settlement is likely several hundred years old. As we hiked in this area, we could see what was left of rock walls of a house. The subterranean winter houses had a sea-facing tunnels which occupants used to enter the living area. This tunnel direction permitted a view of sea-oriented hunting prospects. The other side of the house was used for sleeping. The walls and ceiling were possibly whale bones, with animal skins used to provide a roof covering.

Our guides laid out several artifacts from the settlement found by previous expeditions. These artifacts included knives, arrowheads and sewing needles.

Frederiskdal
This zodiac landing site provided another opportunity to stretch our legs. A somewhat gentle 2.5 hour hike over tundra, small streams and rocks led us to an area that provided excellent viewing of musk ox and an older glacier.

Immikkeertikajik (Ruin Island)
This small island is east of Sydkap, at the mouth of Nordvestfjord. Our zodiacs landed on the rocky northern beach and we proceeded on a 2.5 hour hike over the island to a southern beach. From a high vantage point we took 20 minutes to enjoy the terrific views of large icebergs and sea. At the southern beach, we were able to evidence of a settlement of early inhabitants, likely from 1000-1100 AD. Boarding the zodiacs for a return to the Ocean Nova was quick as the sea swell at the southern beach was growing.