Punta Arenas and Antarctica - 2023

Trip Summary

We've just returned from our final expedition to Antarctica. This trip was arranged through Quark Expeditions. The itinerary included a charter flight from Punta Arenas to the Teniente Marsh Airfield on King George Island, within the Shetland Islands. The flight meant that we would avoid a transit over Drake Passage.

We understood when this trip was booked that weather influences the charter flights. Poor visibility, high winds and ice/snow on the short gravel runway on King George Island can delay or, ultimately, eliminate all flights. As it turned out, the group's two planes couldn't depart Punta Arenas for two whole days - thus, shortening the number of days we would actually be in Antarctica from seven to five.

Despite the loss two expedition days, we were still able to experience nine outings, including one after-dinner zodiac cruise. We had never had a post-dinner zodiac cruise on our other polar trips. Despite the loss of two days, the Ocean Adventurer was able to travel into the Antarctic Circle.

Our January 2015 Antarctica trip was earlier in the Antarctica summer season. During late February to early March 2023, there was less snow on the ground and fewer penguins due to the breeding season being largely over. However, we did see orcas, leopard seals, crab eater seals, fur seals, elephant seals, minke and humpback whales, shags and other birds. We also noticed more restrictions during 2023 landings - guests could no longer simply sit on a rock or snow and watch penguin rookeries due to avian flu concerns.

This was our fifth polar expedition. If we consider a sixth, it could be to West Greenland which we understand could provide more of a cultural experience.

There were six COVID positive cases reported during our ship time. There were several spare cabins to isolate these guests. My spouse was one of these guests and she missed several days of activities. The expedition staff and physician were very helpful. When the zodiacs had departed from the Ocean Adventurer with guests for excursions or landings, the COVID guests were permitted brief periods on the outdoor decks to get fresh air. Quark also provided free Internet access to these guests.  As a spouse of a COVID positive guest, I was required to take a daily COVID test. With a negative result, I could participate in all activities but was required to wear a face covering when indoors during somewhat crowded lounge presentations. I was also required to dine alone in my cabin rather than the restaurant with other guests as it was unknown whether I would test positive at some point. Interestingly, of the six people in my travel group, only my spouse became COVID positive - even though we had dined together for several breakfasts, lunches and dinners. I remained COVID negative when we returned to the US.

We were able to depart King George Island on the scheduled date and time. The COVID guests were seated in the rear of the charter jet and all passengers wore face coverings during the two-hour flight. Once we landed in Punta Arenas, my spouse and I isolated via two different hotels, The Dreams and Cabo de Horns. The Dreams Hotel, which had our original reservation, was sold out and didn't have a second hotel room available.

We are working with our travel insurer for reimbursement related to the lost expedition days and additional hotel stay.

After seven days, my wife was fully recovered and no longer tested COVID positive. While COVID represents a much less dire situation now, it is still active. We've traveled internationally three times over the past 14 months and COVID has struck one or both of us on two of the three trips (Egypt and Antarctica).