Zermatt - 2017

The rail trip from Lauterbrunnen to Zermatt required us to change trains in Interlaken Ost, Spiez and Visp. Our final train at Visp was a cog train - likely needed as we were heading toward the mountains. We passed the time watching the scenery unfold and snacking on a hearty sack lunch packed by the Silberhorn Hotel.

Once we arrived at the Zermatt rail station, we must have looked lost again. With guidance from a passing walker, we found our way to the Schlosshotel. This hotel is within easy walking distance from the rail station and to Gornergrat rail station. 

Schlosshotel Lounge

Many of the the 49-rooms at Schlosshotel have a partial or full view of the Matterhorn and Gornergrat rail station. As the Gornergrat rail service ends around 8:30pm and starts around 7am, any noise from the train operation was not disturbing to us. The hotel location was very convenient for both access to rail trains and walking though the village center.

   

With time to explore the village of Zermatt, we walked towards the Matterhorn Museum. We used our Swiss Rail pass to enter the museum at no additional cost. The underground museum exhibits focused on early mountaineers and efforts and equipment used to scale the mountain in the mid-19^th century. Overall, the exhibits were well explained and were very creative. Not only did we learn about the mountaineers and early ascension attempts, but we learned about the challenges of life in Zermatt. We enjoyed our hour visit to the museum and recommend this visit.

Zermatt is clearly a tourist village, with many stores devoted to souvenirs, mountain clothing and Swiss watches. The are several moderate-sized hotels and restaurants; however, many were closed until June 1. One advantage of our shoulder season visit is that the number of visitors is manageable. During the winter and summer peak visitor seasons, it must be terribly busy and crowded throughout this tiny village of 5,800 residents. 

Historic Swiss Cabin
Note Rock Footings for Rat Control

(Too?) Many Hotels in Zermatt

Dinner was at the casual Brown Cow Pub. The food was tasty and plenty for dinner – all for about $50USD. We walked off our dinner by going up the Bahnhofstrasse and visiting the cemetery for fallen climbers. From the headstones, we learned that most of the fallen climbers were young, around their mid-20s, following their passion for mountaineering.

Brown Cow Pub

Gornergrat

There are several ways to reach higher views of the Matterhorn. We decided to take the cog train to Gornergrat for a better view of the mountain. On our rail trip to Zermatt, we pre-purchased Gornergrat rail tickets from the conductor to avoid having to stand in line the next day at the ticket office.

With an early breakfast, we boarded the 8:30am train. This was a great decision as there were very few visitors once we reached uppermost Gornergrat rail station 30 minutes later. We walked up to the top of the viewing platform and enjoyed our panoramic views. The sky was clear and the Matterhorn was in clear sight from each viewing area. Of the three alp viewing areas we visited, Gornergrat was the least touristy - no ice sculptures or watch stores - just spectacular views of the Matterhorn and surrounding mountains.

Gornergrat Elevation is 13,132 Feet

Perfect Location for a Coffee

Alpine Chough

We later moved down to the cafeteria and enjoyed coffees and an apricot Kuchen while on the outdoor patio. Note that if you purchase a snack from the cafeteria, your receipt will provide a wireless access code. An Alpine Chough attempted to snap a few kuchen scraps while we were enjoying our views.   

Once again, we found pleasant temperatures at the top of Gornergrat. The sun was out and there was little wind. I wore only a long sleeve shirt and a light jacket shell. Actually, the weather felt the warmest of all of our Swiss alpine stops. 

We returned to Zermatt in time for lunch. Our afternoon plan was to hike up 1,200 feet in elevation to Pension Edelweiss. However, the climb was particularly steep and rocky and we soon came to a small creek to ford. Not wanting to press our luck with a risk of possible fall, we turned back and walked back to our hotel via the other side of the creek running through Zermatt village. We later learned that we were on the wrong trail and the actual path is partially paved - with no streams to cross. If you try this hike, the correct path is behind the Old English Church. 

Stream and Falls to Cross on Wrong Trail to Pension Edelweiss

A reasonably priced dinner but unremarkable meal was at Grampi’s Restaurant. Pizza and salads for two, with drinks, ran about $50USD.   

With our two night stay in Zermatt completed, the next day we were leaving the alps and traveling to the city of Luzern.